My French Cathedrals power ranking of 2022
I love cathedrals, and I love France. In the past two years, I visited more than 20 cathedrals and chapels, and as I am approaching the end of my stay in France, I thought it is only appropriate to put on paper my personal ranking of French cathedrals.
The rules: it has to be a church or cathedral that is actually being used for prayer, open to the public, and a place I personally visited. That’s it. Parameters for ranking are subtext, text, and context. This is not a historic or artistic review, and I am not going over all the amazing things each of these places is about. Google it. I am, however, pointing out why I liked it and why I scored it the way I did.
The subtext is everything that is beneath the stones — the story of the place, why, and how it was built. Text is what you see — beauty, art, creativity, size. Context is what you think while you look at it — special meaning the place bears today and other forms of added value.
I made a google maps list that contains all the locations of the cathedrals mentioned here below for free use. The link in the cathedral name is to a website of the place, if available. Let’s start.
*Official ranking*
- Basilique Cathédrale Saint-Denis (Saint-Denis): Subtext 10, text 8, context 10 (total score 28)
Completed in 1144, Gothic or Old Gothic style (Wiki).
To some extent, this ranking is an excuse for me to declare my admiration for the cathedral of Saint-Denis. This place holds the body, or cénotaphes (empty tombs) of most of the French kings and queens, since the 6th century, all the way to Louis XIII (XIX century). This is one of the oldest standing gothic structures, and as such, it is simple. It is perhaps underwhelming in terms of size and lavishness. For me, this simplicity allows the visitor to soak in the historic importance of this place: this is where the French people noted to themselves they are a nation, ever since the XII century, already with a historic understanding of their national origin 600 years back. I love this place — the way the light falls from the stained glass windows onto the marble monuments, the idea of people carrying their king’s body to Saint-Denis to be laid to rest for 1,000 years. I particularly recommend visiting the underground part and the view of the remains of the Roman burial ground that lays below. Visit to the cathedral is free, but the burial area requires a ticket.
2. Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg (Strasbourg): Subtext 8.5, text 10, context 8 (total score 26.5)
Construction 1015 to 1439, Rayonnant Gothic architecture (Wiki).
The highest text mark on the list is not for nothing. The cathedral is built out of locally famous red sandstones, with an a-symmetrical design of only one tower, and remarkable size. It is absolutely gorgeous. Above that, it is located in an area with historical importance, on the French-German border, which was the center of so many terrible wars, and was built with extra attention to the way it is viewed in the region, and therefore receives a high subtext score. It is part of the well-preserved old part of Strasbourg, an important touristic destination, famous for its Christmas market — a great setting to have such a beautiful cathedral in. It is celebrated by many, but not overvalued. Bingo.
3. Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d’Orléans (Orléans): Subtext 9.5, text 8, context 8 (total score 25.5)
Original structure built 1278 to 1329, Gothic style (World History)
This cathedral, and most of Orléans’ old city, were built in times when the city was the most important place in France. After the demise of the Roman empire, the Loire Valley was the heart of the area and the home of many French kings and queens. The cathedral itself was visited repeatedly by Joan of Arc, a local hero. All of this rewards it with a high subtext score. A number of reconstructions and preservation were done over the years, all well executed and the place looks great, but there are prettier places, which gives us the 8 for text. As for the current context it carries, I am not an expert, but I believe it gets the attention it deserves, in what is otherwise a fairly boring place. It is not overrated and perhaps even somewhat underrated, which for me rewards it with an extra point, and gets us to 8.
4. Saint-Étienne-du-Mont (aka Saint-Geneviève, Paris 5th arr.): Subtext 9, text 8.5, context 8 (total score 25.5)
The first structure was built in 502, current structure first erected in 1222, flamboyant gothic style (wiki)
If this list was about beauty alone, this cathedral was second only to the cathedral of Strasbourg. Its stone sculptures and long arched aisles are marvelous, and its exterior presentation, just next to the great Pantheon hall, is breathtaking. For text, this is a solid 8.5. The construction of the place was done in a number of waves, adding and changing its appearance every time. This spot, at the top of a hill overlooking the old part of town, was of great importance for many years, and king Clovis was buried there. It has since been used to commemorate many saints, including St. Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris itself. For subtext, I’m giving it a 9. The church is not celebrated today, compared to other cathedrals in its proximity, and many of its visitors are just there waiting for their turn to enter the Pantheon, so it's an 8, but a weak 8, and therefore loses the 3rd place to Joan of Arc.
5. Cathédrale Saint Eustache (Paris 1st arr.): Subtext 9, text 8, context 8.5 (total score 25)
Built 1532 to 1632, replacing a smaller chapel from 1213, flamboyant gothic with renaissance and classic elements (wiki)
I read two historical books about Paris before I got to “the belly of Paris” by Émil Zola. In all of those books, and every other piece of history I read about Paris, the importance of Saint Eustache is clear. It was there through the rapid growth of the city, and the dramatic events that made it into what it is today during the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, right there in the center. The old market of the city grew around it. The chapel is enormous, though not the biggest in the city, it completely dominates its surrounding. It exemplifies how wonderful gothic and classic architectures can be, and for me, that justifies a 9 and 8 for subtext and text. Its importance today is due to its central location and size, practically replacing the Cathedral of Notre Dame during the reconstruction. Just for this role, it deserves an 8.5.
6. Église Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption (Éze): Subtext 9.5, text 6, context 9 (total score 24.5)
Built in the XII century, neo-classic architecture
The church of Éze is on this list on behalf of so many other small churches in France, older than most cities, with no particular importance, but with tons of history and breathtaking beauty, standing peacefully on the mountain tops. The church of Éze is particularly small and struggles to raise money for proper preservation, much needed by the way. In a thousand-year-old village, it overlooks the beaches of the French Riviera and attracts no attention. The village was a home for Friedrich Nietzsche, and I can’t ignore the wonderful opportunity for the writer to visit this small church before going back to his cabin and writing his monumental essays about god. You might argue about the grades I gave it, but I felt one spot on the list must be reserved for a representative of the small, unnoticeable churches of France.
7. Église Saint Sulpice (Paris 6th arr.): Subtext 8, text 8, context 8 (total score 24)
Built 1646, baroque architecture (wiki)
Considered by many to be one of the most famous and important, and pretty, cathedrals of Paris, I could not have ignored Saint Sulpice. It is visited and celebrated and therefore deserves an 8 contextual score. It is unique and impressive but the style, to me, misses the classical element that gothic cathedrals project with little effort. The exterior has some greek elements and the interior is colorful, potentially even load. I accept many people like that and gave it an 8 for text. The subtextual importance of the church stems from the life it had, the boldness of its design, and the many people who prayed wedded and were laid to rest there. I gave it an 8, which I felt was too generous. I did so because I feel my knowledge of its value is lacking.
8. Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres (Chartres): Subtext 8, text 9, context 6.5 (total score 23.5)
Constructed 1194 to 1220, high gothic and romanesque styles (wiki)
As I was late for the opening hours, I was granted access to the cathedral just for a very short moment. It left a strong impression of me but I would love for another opportunity to see it with more attention. It is large and very noticeable in its environment, and resides in an otherwise unremarkable town. It was built during the golden age of the Loire valley, like its Orleans sister, but does not enjoy the benefits of a historical legend as Joan of Arc. Mainly I think the Chartres cathedral is just a simple, perfect, impressive depiction of the gothic architecture, with a perfect execution of every one of the elements that define this style.
9. Sacré-Cœur (Paris 18th arr.): Subtext 9, text 6, context 6 (total score 21)
Construction 1875 to 1914, romano-byzantine architecture (wiki)
On pure merits, if you ask me, this chapel would not find its place in a top-10 ranking. It is in here only because of its unbelievable location, and because of the tenacity of its builders, to cover the most notable point in Paris with a neo roman byzantine megastructure. The two reasons described above give it a 9 on subtext. The Basilique itself is too extravagant for my taste and does not fit in its environment. For context, I mainly think it is overrated and therefore the penalty. It is said to be the second most visited place in Paris, for its magnificent view, and I do recommend a visit, but I do think there are nicer things to see in the area.
10. Basilique Sainte-Clotilde (Paris 7th arr.): Subtext 5, text 8, context 7 (total score 20)
Construction 1846 to 1857, Neo-Gothic style (wiki)
This Basilique is not special and I believe that it would not come up on 9 out of 10 other lists of cathedrals in Paris. It’s probably not even on the route of local tourist guides, and this is why I must rate it low on subtext. But the structure is defiantly top-10 material. It is a work of art, both on the inside and on the outside. It sits quietly in a small street, facing a tiny park with large trees, slightly separated from the commotion of boulevard Saint-Germain. For context, as you might have gathered, it is widely underrated in my view, which grants it extra points. But if I am being honest, most of its 7 points are a result of my personal experience in Sainte-Clotilde. I passed by on my bike during a lovely morning and had to stop by once I saw it, and it left a lasting impression on me. Since this is my ranking, Sainte-Clotilde is in.
*Visited but not ranked*
Église Saint-Merry (Paris 4th arr.): bordering the square of the Pompidou Center, it enjoys a wonderful location. It is a significant monument in its area. For me, it’s the perfect resting place during long walks in the Marais.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille à Lille (Lille): the main cathedral of Lille has historical significance but the renovations it went through during the years damaged its design and made it into a weird mixture of a number of unsuccessful artistic interpretations. There are prettier things to see in Lille.
Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix (Paris 20th arr.): this cathedral is the view of my home street and will forever be a part of how I remember my Parisian house on rue Ménilmontant. It is not remarkable in any way but I personally love it.
Église Saint-Ambroise (Paris 11th arr.): lovely and modest, it stands in front of a great urban park and blends perfectly into its surrounding. As a cathedral, it is not particularly amazing but as far as cathedrals in the “neighborhood space” goes, it is one of the best.
Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Belleville (Paris 19th arr.)
Saint-Nicolas du Chardonnet (Paris 5th arr.)
Église Saint-Séverin (Paris 5th arr.): somewhat of a hidden gem, this lovely church is built within walking distance from a dozen other cathedrals, bigger and more famous. But, something in the way the street was built around it, makes it an endearing place. Just across the alley, you will find the narrowest house in Paris, and in close proximity the oldest tree in the city.
Église Notre Dame de Sancerre (Sancerre): don’t miss the old depictions of the stops Jesus went through on his way to the cross if you happen to be there. The visit to Sancerre is mostly a wine thing, though.
Église Notre-Dame de Croaz-Batz (Roscoff): unremarkable, but for the ancient grave that is located in the chapel, which took me by surprise.
*Notable but could not be ranked*
# Chapelle royale de Versailles: the cathedral of Versailles is located inside the Palace. It was ruled that a cathedral that does not stand on its own cannot be ranked and therefore this beautiful cathedral is not in our top 10. I find this an opportunity to test our ability to judge such a thing on its merits: this is an amazing hall, that to me is top-10 material without a doubt. Nonetheless, we can’t ignore the context in which this is experienced, and we must ask — would this be so wonderful if it was not the church king Louis XIV built for himself?
# Chapelle de la Miséricorde (Lycée Henri-IV): this is a small church built in 1190 (!), today located inside the high school that is adjacent to the Pantheon. It was in use in the XIII century and later, but then covered in ruins for centuries. Today it is fully functional but can be visited only by entering the high school, which is usually possible once or twice a year — and therefore was ruled to not be ranked. The church has a depiction of a diabolic figure whispering to the ear of the saint, which is fairly rare in churches, to the best of my knowledge.
# Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris: the legendary symbol of Paris was not ranked because I could not visit it. The cathedral was (as you know) burned and severely damaged in a fire a few years ago and will remain closed until the reconstruction is over. Authorities say 2024. It is absolutely amazing from the outside, but it will not be ranked until, hopefully, I will be able to visit the inside, one day.
# Hôtel des Invalides: the “Invalides”, once a military hospital and today a military museum and the gravesite of Napoleon, holds a cathedral that is actually two cathedrals. King Louis XIV asked for the cathedral to be built split in half so that he can attend masses without rubbing shoulders with his soldiers. This is a unique, beautiful cathedral with both historical and current importance, but it did not end up in our ranking because it does not stand on its own, but only as part of the museum, though the commoners' half is open free of charge. The royal half however is part of the site of the tomb of napoleon and is available only with a paid ticket.
